Improvement in collars



J. W. A. CLUETT.

commas,

Patented Aug. 1 1, 1877.

NJEI'ERS, PHOTO LITHOGRAPHER. G O I Dv C.

' UNITED STATES PATENT. oFFm J: ALFRED ioLUETT, OF'TROY, NEW? YORK.

IMPROVEMENT m COLLARS.

Specification forming part 0 Letters Patent No. 194,031, dated August14, 1877; application filed July 12, 1877.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, J W. ALFRED GLUETT, of the city of Troy, State ofNew York, have invented a certain new and useful Improvement in theManufacture of Collars for Ladies and Gentlemens Wear, of which thefollowing is a full and exact description, ref erence being had to theaccompanying drawings, with the letters of reference marked thereon,which form a part of this specification.

Figure 1 is a plan view of a completed collar, illustrating thedirection of the warpthreads in the band thereof. Fig. 2 is a similarview, wherein portions of the upper and lower plies of the band areturned away from the re-enforcing piece to exhibit the location of thislatter part, the direction of the warpthreads in each piece beingrepresented, as in Fig. 1, by the fine parallel lines. Fig. 3 is a planview of the back ply of the band, having the re-enforcing pieces laidthereon; and Figs. 4 and 5 are detached views of said reenforcing parts.

Like letters in all the figures refer to corresponding parts.

My invention relates to the various kinds of collars worn by ladies andgentlemen, and is particularly important in collars known as curvedcollars}? and consists of a re-enforced band.

The object of my invention is to re-enforce each end of the collar-bandby an additional piece of cloth inserted and secured between the outerand inner parts of the band, and extending from the ends of the band toa point near where the band is cut on a line parallel with the warp ofthe goods. In curved collars this piece of cloth is cut in line with itswarp, for the purpose of preventing the band from stretching while thecollar is in process of manufacture or being laundried. The piece may becut diagonally or directly across. the warp of the goods, but will bestronger and firmer if out in line parallel with the warp.

The bands of many kinds of collars are cut in a curved form, (in somestyles the bands are curved very much,) and the cloth is thereforenecessarily cut diagonally across the warp in some parts of the band.

Those parts of the band the warp of which is not parallel with the bandwill stretch while the collar is in process of manufacture, or whilebeing laundried, and this stretching destroys the accuracy of thenumbers which designate the size of the collar, and to such an extentthat collars cut of equal size will not always, when washed and ironed,be of uniform size, and will not, therefore, when tied up in dozens,present a uniform appearance. The band will also be weaker wherever cutwith the warp diagonally, and this weakness occurs at or near the endsof the bands, which ends, therefore, need re-enforcing in order to makethem firm and serviceable.

To obviate these difficulties I insert and secure between the outer andinner parts of the band A, at each end, a piece of cloth, b, preferablycut in line with the warp of the goods. This piece will extend from theend of the hand back as far as the other parts of the band, or cutdiagonally across the warp, or about to the position indicated by thelines a: a: a; 00, Fig. 1.

These reenforcin g pieces materially strengthen the collar-band at itsweakest points and save material, because they are much shorter than afull ply, and maybe cut'from the small waste pieces of goods which arevalueless for any purpose in the business, and, at the same time, are,for all practical purposes, equal to a full ply for strengthening theband.

In a curved collar, when out in a line with the warp of the goods, theyare much superior to a full'ply, because the full ply will necessarilybe cut from the cloth diagonally across the warp at one or both ends,and will, therefore, add little to the strength and firmness of theband.

By using these re-enforcing pieces in the bands, collars, both curvedand straight, will remain, after they'are manufactured and laundried,the same size they were when out, and will be even and uniform inappearance and in fact. In addition thereto the band will be firm andstrong, with less material than ordinarily used. I

What I claim as my invention, and desire to secure by Letters Patent,is-

l. In combination with a band of a collar,

a re-enforcing piece of cloth inserted .and secured at each end of theband, and between the outer and inner sides of the band, substantiallyas and for the purposes herein described.

2. In combination with the band of a curved collar, a re-enforcing pieceof cloth cut on a line parallel with the warp of the goods, and insertedand secured at each end of the band,

and between the outer and inner sides of the band, substantially as andfor the purposes herein described.

Dated July 7, 1877.

J. W. A. OLUETT.

Witnesses:

N. DAVENPORT, JOHN H. RIOEDAN.

